Close of Service Survey

A rite of passage for every Volunteer about to leave the Peace Corps D.R. is to complete an exit survey for the unofficial magazine the Gringo Grita. I have worked on the Gringo Grita for the past two years, and so it was a bitter-sweet moment when I submitted my own survey to the magazine. You can read my submission below (Warning it is filled with Spanglish.):

Name: Susan Stine

D.R. apodos: Susi, Profe, Fea (only used by my 10 year-old BFF).

Site location: A campo with views of the Bay of Samaná.

Program: EDU

View of the Samana bay from my site

Project assignment: Build a library.

The library full of students

Project reality: Built said library. While waiting for construction permits and políticos to keep their promises I taught kids their vowels, partnered with a técnico to present Escojo Enseñar, and ran Chicas Brillantes, Me Toca a Mi, Chicos Superman, and English clubs.

Most useful thing brought into country: My ability to sleep no matter how loud the colmados blast bachata. Runner up would be my incredible immune system, which has prevented me from getting diarrhea, parasites, and amebas.

Least useful thing brought into country:  Concealer. I tried to use it for Swear-In and I looked like a ghost. Freckles and concealer do not mix.

Best "I-know-I'm-in-Peace-Corps-now" moment:  On my first day in my community my 13 year-old host sister took me around to visit our neighbors. While visiting one neighbor she informed me that she was sick and had to go to the capital the next day for treatment. I asked her what was wrong but instead of responding with words she unbuttoned her blouse to show me a two square inch open wound just above her left nipple. She then threw some brown sugar on the wound and buttoned her blouse back-up. I looked over at my host-sister and was relieved to see she was also in shock about what just happened. I knew everything was going to be OK that night when I called my parents and they were not shocked by my neighbor’s actions but instead explained that brown sugar is good for keeping wounds clean. Oh, and in case you are worried, my neighbor is still alive and healthy.

Nana cleaning out my water tank

I felt most integrated into Dominican culture when: I mandared kids to get the inside of my 150 gallon tínaco with bleach and clean out all the mud and dead insects. Meanwhile I blasted Romeo Santos and watched. Also once during a medical mission I took my shoe off to threaten a bunch on children. It had the desired affect of getting them to run away screaming, but for the record if I tried to pull a stunt like that in my community the kids would all call my bluff and laugh-in my face.

Nana lecturing me during Monopoly

Funniest experience in country: Playing Monopoly with my sister, Kelly, and my 10 year-old BFF, Nana. Nana got mad at Kelly and I for our ruthless, American, capitalist ways and proceeded to lecture us about how we were not in America but in the D.R. and therefore had to play Monopoly like Dominicans.

I will also always have fond memories of re-hashing NYE 2013 with Amanda in the waves at Playa Grande. That’s when our friendship went to the next level.

Most memorable illness or injury: Following the 2013 holidays I went into an emotional slump: my family had left, it was rainy, and I felt like I had achieved next to nothing after my first 9 months in site. I tried to distract myself by reading Orange is the New Black but instead I wrote up a list of all the ways Peace Corps is like prison. (FYI Piper Kerman would not have survived PC.) When I shared my list with Sara Conners she bluntly told me, “Peace Corps is going to be a long f**king time if you think of it in those terms.” That’s when I realized I had a problem and with the help of family and friends, and starting to find some success in site I was able to get out of my slump. But it isn’t so easy for everyone. I encourage anyone reading this who is unhappy to talk to someone about what is making you feel that way. It doesn’t have to be a PCMO, but if the person you talk with says you should seek professional advice heed their help. Peace Corps isn’t about who suffers the most. It is about helping others, and if you are in a bad place mentally you won’t be able to do your job or enjoy the fruits of your labor.

Tough to beat this kind of view

Most Dominican habit you’ll take home with you: Wearing brightly - some might say garishly - colored clothing.

Most beautiful place in country:  My community and the view from the back of a pick-up truck.

Most creative way you killed time in site: Sewing opaque curtains so the tigueres couldn’t stare at me, along with other home improvement endeavors aided greatly by my hot glue gun.

Best transportation story: Once in the capital I had the honor of going out dancing with Brendan, Connor, and Andy. As the only girl in the group I got to dance the night away. However, the next morning I quickly learned there are consequences to going out with just boys. I was so exhausted that I was positive I was not going to be able to walk from the Bella to the office with my bultos. Thankfully, while buying Gatorade at the nearby colmado I was able to introduce myself to some policemen who had a car. They kindly gave me and the other girl PCVs a bola to the office. The boys had to walk.

What Spanish word or phrase have you made up during your service and what does it mean?: I haven’t made up any words but I really wish Dominicans used the Chilean pronunciation of WiFi, turning those English i’s into Spanish ones.

How have you changed during your service?: I have a lot more freckles. I am much more willing to share. I am less judgmental. I have adopted a sense of Dominican over-confidence in my abilities and my beauty (Thanks piropos!). My stress levels are way lower and the bar for me to become stressed is much higher. I now know I could adopt a child and love it as my own. I consider myself a dancer. I am more focused on doing things that make me happy. I am happier.

If your service were a book, what would its title be?: Letting Things Slide

What books did you read, tv shows did you watch, and/or podcasts did you listen to that you would recommend?: I LOVE podcasts. They make cleaning the house an enjoyable event. Here are some that don’t get enough PCV love: The Bugle, Global News, Fresh Air, Planet Money, Wait Wait… Don’t Tell Me!, and Welcome to Night Vale. Read In the Time of Butterflies by Julia Álvarez and then ask older Dominicans about what life was life under Trujillo. I also recommend you do not read The Time Traveler’s Wife nor Orange is the New Black, especially if you are the type of person prone to getting emotionally involved when they read a book, like I am.

I'll miss the lizards

What are you glad you did here?:  Everything. I am glad I tried new projects even when they failed, adopted my dog and cat, took evening walks with my dog and used the time to check-in with fellow PCVs, visited my host-family daily, became BFFs with a 10 year-old, started a Chicas Brillantes club, followed the education sector framework on my own terms, and said, “Yes.” to working on the VAC and the Gringo Grita.

What do you wish you had done here?: I wish I had been able to work more closely with the teachers in my community’s school, painted a mural at my library, and climbed Pico Duarte.

What will you miss six months from now?: The lizards, my neighbors, playing with Nana, hearing the rain as it travels across the valley to my home, listening to grasshoppers as I drift off to sleep, being within walking distance of beautiful views of the Samaná Bay, making my own schedule, being able to go to the beach whenever I want, the flota, randomly receiving fresh food and drink from neighbors, the creative piropos, running in shorts and a t-shirt all year round, and not having to pick-up my dog’s poop.

The weather is always right for running...and beers

What won't you miss six months from now?: Being seen as a foreigner/an outsider/a minority, lack of cell service, having to walk all around town to find a place with internet, washing dishes and clothes without running water, and always having to be alert for dogs and cats sneaking into my house to steal food.

What's next?:  A European adventure with my siblings, learning how to ride a motorcycle, finding a place to dance bachata, getting my freckles checked-out by a dermatologist and eventually a job too.

Big plans for your readjustment allowance?: A blow-out trip across Europe with my sister and brother. Eight countries in three weeks.

Advice to a new volunteer: Always wear your helmet! Don’t get kicked out for stupid reason! It doesn’t matter who is driving the motorcycle, there will always be someone on the road drinking and driving who is liable crash into you. Be safe! Remember to be patient but proactive. For example: Wait the extra hour for a meeting to start but before the next meeting remind everyone individually about the actual start time of the meeting. Also, the squeaky wheel gets the grease! If you have a problem don’t grouch about it – tell someone! PC staff are at the office to help you, but they can’t do much if they don’t know you need help.

Algo más?: 517-13-01 it has been a blast. You all have expanded my horizons in so many ways, thanks. I look forward to SnapChatting with you all in America.

Gringo Grita want to know, would you rather spend the rest of your life in the D.R. without ever being able to go to the beach, or live in America but the electricity is permanently out in your apartment?: Not even a hard choice. As a Jersey Girl I can't live without the beach! Plus, while I love the D.R., I can't imagine living in the D.R. for the rest of my life. I don't even think living in the U.S. without electricity would be too bad because I would have no shame in charging everything at my job or the Starbucks down the street. Even buying groceries on a daily basis wouldn't be too bad because I would be doing so in America.

Grita Award: Most likely to start a fight club in her library.

1st week in D.R.

Now

Dominican Music

You will never be asked to turn down your music in the Dominican Republic. Why? Because blasting your music is part of being Dominican. How did blasting music at all hours of the day become socially acceptable? I have no idea, but I am thankful that I never have to worry about offending anyone when I throw dance parties with the neighborhood kids. The downside is that I am sometimes woken up by a neighbor's stereo system at 6 a.m. (when the power comes on).

For an entire month I was woken up by this song:

It was a rough month.

Thankfully, the above song is not representative of Dominican music. Indeed, the above song is from a Venezuelan singer popular in the late 80's. Much more often you will hear bachata, merengue, salsa, or dembow music. All of which I am come to enjoy. Here is a break down on what they all sound like:

Bachata
Bachata was created in the D.R. in the early part of the 20th century. It was once considered to be the music of country-folk - the lyrics and dancing were considered too vulgar for the wealthy, but today it is the most common music you will hear on the radio. The are a multitude of great Dominican artists in this genre. To get a good mix I recommend the "I love Bachata" album series which is available on iTunes. (I have 2013 and 2014.) The most well known singers of this music are Prince Royce and Romeo Santos, both of whom are Americans. I prefer Romeo Santos - his album Fórmula Vol. 2 is amazing and features mainstream American artists: Drake and Niki Minaj, although their Spanish singing skills are wanting.

Decide who you prefer by listening to two of their most popular songs.

First Prince Royce with "Darte un Beso" (Give you a Kiss):

And now Romeo Santos with "Eres Mía" (You are Mine):

Merengue:
Merengue, like bachata, is native to the D.R. Created in the 19th century the music was made popular by the country's dictator, Rafel Trujillo. Merengue is now one of the most popular genres of music in all of Latin America. Merengue music tends to have a faster beat than bachata and the dance is also more rapid and features more spins and turns than bachata. I think meregue is more fun to dance, but only if your dance partner know what they are doing - otherwise you are just dancing in a circle.

There are not many female singers heard on Dominican radio, but Miriam Cruz is one exception. Check her out below with the old but classic "La Loba" (The She-Wolf):

Salsa:
Salsa originates from Cuba, and is not nearly as common as bachata or merengue. Bachata and merengue can be difficult to distinguish at first, but since salsa was developed off the island its sound is unique. But if you can't hear the difference, you can always tell when a salsa is playing because only two couples will be dancing. Most Dominicans do not know how to dance salsa - they seem to like to stick to their native dances: bachata and merengue. However, there are still well known Dominican salsa singers and most Dominicans can sing along to salsa songs played on the radio. Here is Yiyo Sarante with "Pirata de Amor" (Pirate of Love):

Dembow
Dembow is a new and evolving genre, original to the D.R. It is a form of rap stemming from Puerto Rico's reguetón music (think "Gasolina" by Daddy Yankee), however now it is its own beast. I use the word beast because dembow lyrics tend to focus on sex, drinking, and generally acting wild. Dancing to dembow is similar to dancing to American rap music - just find a stranger and start grinding up on them. Get your booty shakin' to this next song by El Alfa, "Subete en el Caballo" (Get on the Horse). And yes, the title is a sexual innuendo.

Just for fun, below, is a more innocent dembow song. This song is about the Chikungunya virus, which I finally got (and recovered from) last month. I didn't get the severe joint pain as portrayed in the video but I did get swollen joints, fever, rash, and random waves of exhaustion (I fell asleep at my kitchen table surrounded by unopened grocery bags one afternoon.). Still, I consider myself lucky. Many of my neighbors and fellow volunteers continue to suffer from joint pain months after their initial diagnosis. K2 and his song "La Chikungunya" should give you an idea of what they are still going through:

American Pop
Like nearly every where in the world, you can hear American pop occasionally in D.R. The U.S. is close enough that some volunteers tune into Radio Disney to get their pop music fix. Most Dominicans to not know what the lyrics to American songs mean - but that doesn't stop them from singing along.

Slowly Dominican music is making its way back to the States. Prince Royce and Romeo Santos can already be heard on the radio in America - especially their songs that mix English and Spanish and/or feature popular English singers. An explosion in popularity for Dominican music in the U.S. is coming. Are you ready?!

Death in the D.R.

Cross cultural exchanges between myself and Dominicans almost always occur in unexpected moments. Like the time I had to explain that just because Americans send many used clothes to the Dominican Republic it doesn't mean we throw away our clothes after one use. A few weeks ago I my grandmother passed away, and I found myself explaining an aspect of American culture: death.

I was able to take an emergency vacation to the States to attend my grandmother's funeral, but before I left, I had to let all of my project partners and students know that I would be away for the week. After giving me their condolences my friends would inevitably ask if I was going to be able to attend the actual funeral. In the D.R. the tradition is to bury the dead 24 hours after their death. My neighbors were relived when I told them that in the U.S. the dead are typically embalmed to allow family members living far away to participate in the funeral services. Dominicans know of embalming but most families do not use the procedure either because they do not have the money and/or prefer to follow culture tradition of a rapid burial. 

Since the funeral is held 24 hours after death, the mourning process is sped up and intensified in most Dominican communities. Immediately following the death of a loved one the family springs into action informing everyone in the community of the death and inviting them over to the home of the deceased to mourn. I was once awoken at 6 a.m. by mourners informing neighbors of the death a community member who had died at 4 a.m. 

The home of the deceased becomes an impromptu wake. The body is typically laid on the ground in a bedroom where mourners can visit at and express all their emotions. Everyone in the community is expected to visit. Those closest to the family are expected to stay at the home until the funeral. The home often becomes a full 24 hour vigil of screaming, crying, and comforting. Unlike in the U.S. where everyone tries to keep their emotions in check, in the D.R. emotions are displayed at an almost theatrical level (I have seen people pass out in front of the body of the deceased.). There is little time for the family to be alone; which is the point. Dominicans do not like to leave friends alone during times of sadness. (One of my project partners said she would've traveled with me to the States if she could have, just so I wouldn't be alone.) 

It's easy to tell when a wake is being held at a home. There will be an overflow of people outside the house in white or black, sitting in plastic chairs and talking in groups. It is not uncommon for drinking to occur, and when an important figure in the community dies the wake can become a huge party. More of a celebration of the person's life than a mourning their death. The food and spirits are normally provided by the family of the deceased; unlike in the U.S. where friends and co-workers bring enough food to last the family for weeks.

Funeral Processional (umbrellas are for the sun)

When it is time to head to the cemetery Dominicans, like Americans, have a processional to the cemetery. However, aside from the processional itself, not much is the same. Almost everyone who attended the wake will also attend the funeral, which means a lot of vehicles are needed. Since most Dominicans do not own cars, all sorts of vehicles are used: motorcycles, busses, flatbed trucks, tourist safari trucks, livestock carriers, etc. The processional is also a slow one, allowing those who live along the route to the cemetery the opportunity to join in the processional and/or pay their respects. I was once part of a processional that took 45 minutes to travel 5km (typically a 10 minute drive).

Cemetery in Argentina 

Once at the cemetery the funeral itself is quick; often those at the end of the processional miss out on the majority of the service. As in much of Latin America, the dead are not buried below ground but instead are placed in tombs or family crypts. Following the funeral everyone gets back into the vehicles from the processional and return home - at a much faster speed. Depending on the family's religion other events will occur to memorialize the deceased such as a church service nine days after the death and/or a yearly mass in remembrance of the deceased. Most of these events are held by Catholic families. The majority of my community is evangelical (a growing sect in the D.R.), who typically refrain from such events. However, evangelicals will honor the deceased during the church service following the death of the deceased, as they did for my grandmother.

Explaining to my neighbors that I had to return to the U.S. for a funeral was a surprisingly cathartic experience. It allowed me to realize how integrated I have become  - I had so many people to inform of my departure - and I was able to see how deeply my community cares for me, which was part of the silver lining of loosing such a dear family member.

I want to thank everyone who gave me their condolences. And my apologies for those who didn't know I was back in the U.S. Let's meet up when I am home again in December.

Library Construction

This week a new sound has been added to the cacophony of motorcycles, bachata music, donkeys, and screaming neighbors that make up the background noise in my community. The noise is construction work (See the video to hear the noise I love to hear). Finally, construction of the library has begun in earnest. All this week from dawn to dusk the men of my community have been preparing the library for today, the day we pour the cement roof.

Things have gone pretty smoothly this week. Except last night when a truck delivering supplies hit a power line and left my community without electricity. Whoops. Luckily we only had to wait three hours for the power line to be repaired.

Construction is the D.R. is different in many ways from construction in the States. First, almost all of the men helping to build the library are volunteers whose construction experience has been gained by building their own homes. Also, different materials are used. Scaffolds and supports are made of wood, not steel. And instead of wood and shingles for roofs, Dominicans prefer cement.

Laying out rebar on top of the roof.

The cement roof, while rare in the U.S., is becoming the standard roof in the D.R. A zinc roof is cheaper and is still the most common type of roof in the D.R. However, it is prone to leaks and can be torn off a house during a hurricane. Therefore, as Dominican families become wealthier they are choosing to build their new homes out of cement from top to bottom. Until this week I had never seen a cement roof being built. I now understand why they are not common in the States.

Cement is heavy, so any building that is going to have a cement roof is going to need support columns. You also need to set up an elaborate system of wood and rebar to allow the cement to set and dry properly. Setting everything up to pour cement took  10 men four 12-hour days to complete. The word cement roof is also a little misleading. Mixed in with the cement is also sand, gravel, and lots of water. You then have to get the mixture to the roof. Today we have twenty men working on mixing and pouring the cement. We also are using a big cement mixer and lifter that a neighbor is letting us borrow.

Temporary Roof Supports

Despite the free equipment, labor, and other donated materials we have spent, just this week, $123,300 pesos or $3,082.50 dollars on the roof. But every penny is worth it to ensure the safe-keeping of the library's books and the longevity of the community center. Now that construction is underway my neighbors have already begun to talk about how they would like to build a second level where they can hold big meetings with the entire community. My neighbors never stop dreaming, and I love them for it.

The library now has a website: http://bibliotecadelcoyote.blogspot.com/
You can find more information about the library and see more pictures there

Other non-library things that happened this week:

I have a new club. We meet once a week to watch a novela (Spanish soap-opera) made by the Peace Corps with a cast of entirely Dominican youths. Each week the characters are faced with an important issue like teen pregnancy, AIDS, violence in the family etc. My students couldn't get enough of it!

When I returned from camp, I discovered that my cat had disappeared. I thought that he had either run off with another cat or he had been eaten by a Dominican. It is not unheard of for Dominicans to eat cats. Some people think their meat can cure diseases and others think it will make them stronger. Luckily, my cat did return but he was injured. He tore up his leg so bad that the veterinarian cursed, in English, when he saw it. In his first year of life my cat has already lost three of his nine lives (he has also been attacked by a chicken and he once ate poisoned food).

While cataloging books I realized that I took a picture with a statue of a character from a comic book we have in the library when I was in Argentina in 2010. I had no idea at the time who/what the statue was made in honor, hence my desire for a photo.

Me and Malfada in 2010

Sunday was Father's Day here in the D.R. and to celebrate we held a movie night. The film for the night was Sanky Panky, which is about Dominican men on the hunt for rich white gringas to seduce. It was a hilarious movie and I now want to watch the sequel.

On Thursday morning I was woken up by the screams of a pig being slaughtered...not the first time this has happened. At least there was also the sound of men building the library.

The Benefits of Working on Vacation

There are few things more amazing than the generosity of strangers.

Today I took sometime out of my vacation in the States to visit Hilldale Elementary School in New Jersey and talk about my service in the Peace Corps. Since November I have been skyping every month with the 5th grade students as part of Peace Corps' World Wise Schools Program. But today was the first day I met the students and staff in-person.

One the 63 cards I received.

When I entered the classroom students immediately began to whisper to one another, "Is that Susan?!," and "Susan's here!" I felt like a celebrity. The students then gave a presentation of about why they think the Peace Corps is important, and thanking me for my service. They said the most adorable things like, "Roses are red, violets are blue, if you need help Peace Corps serves you." My heart melted when one student said that he wanted to join the Peace Corps because his parents were immigrants, and he wanted to serve the U.S. and help others abroad. 

The love fest continued with a the 5th graders presenting me with a Hilldale t-shirt and duffel bag, both personalized with my name. The students surprised me one more time by announcing that they had fundraiser an additional $500 at the elementary school and that the language honor society in the high school raised an additional $500! I was floored. This time last year I didn't know Montville existed, and yet the community has done so much for me and my neighbors in the Dominican Republic. I feel so incredibly blessed by their geneoursosity. When I return to my community next week I can't wait to see my neighbors reactions to the great news. I predict a lot of dancing.

Thanks to the help of Montville residents, family, and friends we have reached a quarter of our U.S. fundraising goal for the library. But that means we still need to raise $4,200. Please help us out, as so many already have, and make our community library a reality by the start of the new school year.
To submit a donation CLICK HERE!

Just a reminder: All donations are tax deductible, and 100% of donations will go to our project. 

Also, you can donate offline. Although donating on-line is the fastest way for projects to get funded, you may also donate by mail or over the phone:

Send a check to:
Peace Corps Headquarters
Office of Gifts and Grants Management
1111 20th Street, NW
Washington, DC 20526

Please make check payable to Peace Corps Partnership Program
Please also note the project number (14-517-025) in the memo section of the check.
(Please print and mail this donation form with your check, so Peace Corps can contact you with information regarding your donation, if necessary.)

-or-

Call the office and Peace Corps can take your credit card information over the phone at 855.855.1961 x2170.